Dart Frog Care
Introduction
In this section we will go over some of the basics of dart frog care. Therefore this information should be considered as introductory as opposed to comprehensive. Interested readers are encouraged to read more on the subject matter on forums such as Dendroboard, books such as Schmidt and Henkel's Professional Breeder Series 'Poison Frogs' (ISBN-10: 1885209142) and a number of the websites listed in the links section.
Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of keeping dart frogs is the ability to maintain them in vivariums full of plants as opposed to the dry and somewhat sterile enclosures reptile keepers know only too well. The living environment, coupled with the ability to use water features and plants to create an eye pleasing setup is a real bonus.
Setting up the Frog Vivarium
The basic housing setup for dart frogs should take into consideration several factors: size, temperature, humidity and lighting. While some go by the rule of thumb of 5 gallons per frog, one must take into consideration the habits of the frog in question as in 'is the species primarily terrestrial (ground loving) versus arboreal (climbing). In addition knowledge about whether a certain species can be kept in groups, implications of sex ratio for group dynamics, etc. are all part of the research one should do before acquiring and housing dart frogs. In our experience, providing maximum space for frogs not only improves their living conditions, it allows for one to use plants and other vivarium decoration to their fullest potential. In our description of our various frogs, we will include information on their housing so that the reader can get an idea of setups that might work for them.
Despite the fact that dart frogs hail from Central and South America, their preferred temperature range is the low to mid 70 degree Fahrenheit (21-23 degrees Centigrade) . They can tolerate temperatures into the mid 60s (18 degrees C) but temperatures over 80 degrees Fahrenheit are to be avoided at all costs. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 80 degrees (27 degrees C) usually leads to frog deaths. Dart frogs enjoy humidity ranges from 70 to 90% and this is accomplished by enclosing the aquarium with a glass lid that may be partially ventilated. Care must be exercised in selecting a lid because dart frogs are notorious escape artists. If you see a hole or gap that looks too small for a frog to squeeze through - think again and seal it up. Humidity can be maintained by light misting daily with distilled water or reverse osmosis water (we don’t recommend using tap water or even spring water due to the buildup over time of mineral deposits on plants, glass, etc.).
Your basic dart frog setup consists of the following elements - a drainage layer, substrate for plants, and live plants. The drainage layer is used to prevent water saturation of the substrate (soil) and is placed on the bottom of the vivarium. A commonly used material for the drainage layer is LECA (large expanded clay aggregate) which is a highly durable and relatively light material. LECA is also known as Hydroton and can be found in hydroponics stores locally. After rinsing it well to remove dust, a 1 to 2 inch layer is placed in the vivarium. Next comes the substrate. A base substrate is cocofiber, a material that is long lasting and free of harmful additives such as fertilizers and pesticides. Do not use real soil as it will rapidly degrade in the vivarium. Because plain cocofiber has a tendency to compact, addition of materials such as orchid bark, coco husk chips, and tree fern fiber can loosen up the substrate mix and provide additional aeration. However, we have used straight cocofiber in a number of vivariums with no problem.
Now for planting the vivarium. You may be surprised to know that many common house plants that come from subtropical and tropical parts of the globe do quite well in the frog vivarium. However the key is to find those plants that will not outgrow the enclosure or choke everything else out with excessive growth. The purpose of plants in the vivarium are to provide shelter for frogs, help keep up the humidity, recycle nitrogen and other materials generated by bacterial degradation of frog poop in the substrate and to make the vivarium look alive. Some tried and tested plants include pothos and various philodendrons. While these are fairly risk free choices, they grow well in frog vivs, don’t require excessive lighting and can be easily managed with pruning. Choices with more variety include several of the smaller Alocasias, Anthuriums, Calatheas, Pileas, Peperomias and vining plants such as Ficus pumila (creeping fig) and Cissus discolor. Black Jungle Terrarium Supply is a good place to look for a variety of plants although there are other sources as well. In addition, small bromeliads can be mounted on wood and grow epiphytically where they provide breeding spots for frogs.
It is best to purchase your plants from sources that have raised them in the absence of pesticides and strong chemical fertilizers. However, it is possible to use plants purchased from stores like Lowes and Home Depot provided certain precautions are observed. To remove pesticide residue on the leaves, mix one teaspoonful of dishwashing soap in a gallon of water and immerse the foliage in the solution. Remove and let sit for 5 minutes then thoroughly rinse the foliage and soil to remove soap residue. When ready to plant in the viv substrate, remove as much of the soil from the root mass and wash thoroughly with water to remove fertilizer residue. While it is possible to purchase your plant, treat as indicated and plant the same day, it is preferable to remove the pesticide residue from the leaf surfaces and allow the plant to sit for several weeks so that pesticide residues within the plant decrease to an acceptable level.
One of the common mistakes that newcomers (including yours truly) make starting out is the temptation to plant the new viv very densely so that it has that filled in look. Unfortunately this leaves little room for the plants to grow and spread naturally and the viv rapidly becomes a vegetation choked jungle. So a sense of how rapidly individual plants grow, their full size and how you would like the viv to look in the months to come is very helpful in laying out your initial planting. Below is a picture of a viv that has been minimally planted to achieve long term outcomes.....
After you have planted your viv, it is desirable to cover the exposed substrate with something that will prevent dirt from adhering to the frogs’ skin. Live mosses can be used in the vivarium setting provided that they are tropical in nature (terrestial mosses that we have in North America normally require a dormant period during winter and tend to not do well long term in the viv). In addition most moss requires very strong lighting and over time as the plants grow it will become shaded. It might seem odd that moss requires strong light since they are normally found in shade. However consider that the light levels in shade outdoors are far greater than can be achieved in most vivariums with artificial lighting. In addition, live moss is very sensitive to mineral supplements used in feeding dart frogs and will die upon repeated exposure to them. We have migrated from using live moss to laying down a layer of long fiber sphagnum moss (New Zealand and Chilean origin preferred). We have used LFS from Calwest Orchid Supply with great success. One needs to be careful about the source of moss since some forms of sphagnum moss sold in garden shops has been heavily fumigated and the pesticide residue will be harmful to frogs. Nice things about sphagnum moss is its durability and the fact that oftentimes it will spring back to life.
The lighting used for the vivarium is more for the plants’ benefit compared to the frogs though the frogs hunt by visual observation of the movement of insects. One thing to remember is that given the closed nature of the vivarium setup, lighting tends to increase the temperature inside the viv and it is not uncommon to find a vivarium running 5 degrees warmer than the external environment. One way to minimize the impact of lighting on heat is to elevate the lights several inches off the vivarium top allowing for air flow plus using fans to provide additional circulation. One thing to consider as you select plants for the vivarium is their light requirements. We have illuminated vivariums with 15 watt reflector strips containing fluorescent bulbs normally used in aquarium setups and also hung 4 foot long shop lights containing two 32 watt tubes over vivariums. The latter is suspended a foot from the vivarium top and provides excellent light intensity into the vivarium without causing excess heat buildup. Typically fluorescent bulbs that have a 5000 or 6700K color temperature are typically used as they emit a color specturm that appears natural to the human eye. Heat lamps of any sort are not needed for dart frog vivariums and are in fact not recommended.
Where and How to Obtain Frogs
All too often one hears of situations where frogs were an impulse purchase with the new owner scrambling for information on how to care for them or that a buyer went with a cheap price only to discover problems down the road. Your best bet is to work with experienced breeders who can provide references if requested, answer your questions about the frogs in question and are willing to spend time helping you determine what frogs are right for you. Provided one is working with the right individuals or organizations, buying over the Internet and having the frogs shipped to you is not something to be feared. If the seller and buyer know what they are doing, this is an effective way of expanding your reach in obtaining frogs. Nothing however beats the experience of being able to see the frogs in person at a Reptile/Amphibian show and hand selecting the ones you want. If choosing them in person, pay close attention to the appearance of the frog. Are the colors bright and the animal alert to external stimuli? Or are the colors dull and the animal unresponsive to all but the most extreme actions? Whether buying in person or online, establish what guarantee the seller is willing to offer. Good breeders will guarantee their frogs for a period of time provided that the buyer can give proof that their care once received was proper. Avoid individuals are in a hurry to make a sale, unwilling or unable to provide references of other customers and can't answer your questions.
Feeding
Dart frogs require living prey as their feeding response is triggered by visual detection of prey movment. A staple food for dart frogs are flightless varieties of the fruitfly Drosophila melanogaster and Drosophila hydei. These insects are very easy to propagate and can form the core of your frogs' diet. Vendors such as Ed's Flymeat have the necessary materials to be able to cultivate fruit flies. Other good feeders include springtails, pinhead crickets, flour beetle larvae and waxworms with individual frog species being capable of taking larger or smaller prey. So once again it pays to research your frog of interest before taking the plunge. One thing that is critical particularly if fruit flies are to be the staple of your frog's diet is to use proper supplementation. The insects that we feed dart frogs in captivity are insufficient to provide all of the essential nutrients and trace elements that they require. A good supplementation regimen is to mix one part RepCal (a phosphorous free calcium supplement containing vitamin D3) with Herptivite (a vitamin/mineral/amino acid supplement) together and use the resulting powder mix to dust your fruit flies prior to feeding. You want to mix the two together prior to use as opposed to having them premixed as the calcium in the RepCal can damage some of the vitamins in the Herptivite. The dusting of your fruit flies is performed by dumping fruit flies into a cup containing your 1:1 RepCal:Herptivite mix, swirling the flies until they are coated with the dust and carefully tapping the dusted flies into your frog vivarium. It sounds complicated but is easily performed with a little practice. An extra benefit of dusting the flies is that they are less able to climb up the glass walls of the viv.
Other Considerations
Perhaps one of the most frequently asked questions by individuals thinking of obtaining dart frogs concerns the ability to mix different colored frogs, different species, etc. Many times this question has been stimulated by seeing a multispecies exhibit at a zoo or simply having an interest in setting up a very colorful and diverse frog vivarium. While in theory with a large enough vivarium and careful selection of its inhabitants such mixing is possible, doing so, particularly by novices is strongly discouraged. For one thing, certain dart frogs can interbreed and produce hybrid offspring. The dart frog hobby as a whole has taken the stance that we are responsible for preserving the genetic heritage of these frogs driven to a great extent by the wholesale destruction of their habitat and threats such as chytrid. Therefore maintaining the purity of bloodlines is critical in that quest. On the other hand, a more immediate practical consideration is that many dart frogs are highly territorial and can be quite aggressive towards one another. Even the large vivariums can not begin to replicate the spatial separation that frogs achieve in the wild. It is not uncommon for one species of frog to show aggression towards other members of its species and interspecies conflict while at times subtle, can ultimately lead to frog illness and death. A stressed frog will stop eating, its immune system becomes compromised and death ultimately results. By the time one realizes that such aggression is occurring, the bullied frog(s) may already be too close to death's door to be saved.
In this section we will go over some of the basics of dart frog care. Therefore this information should be considered as introductory as opposed to comprehensive. Interested readers are encouraged to read more on the subject matter on forums such as Dendroboard, books such as Schmidt and Henkel's Professional Breeder Series 'Poison Frogs' (ISBN-10: 1885209142) and a number of the websites listed in the links section.
Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of keeping dart frogs is the ability to maintain them in vivariums full of plants as opposed to the dry and somewhat sterile enclosures reptile keepers know only too well. The living environment, coupled with the ability to use water features and plants to create an eye pleasing setup is a real bonus.
Setting up the Frog Vivarium
The basic housing setup for dart frogs should take into consideration several factors: size, temperature, humidity and lighting. While some go by the rule of thumb of 5 gallons per frog, one must take into consideration the habits of the frog in question as in 'is the species primarily terrestrial (ground loving) versus arboreal (climbing). In addition knowledge about whether a certain species can be kept in groups, implications of sex ratio for group dynamics, etc. are all part of the research one should do before acquiring and housing dart frogs. In our experience, providing maximum space for frogs not only improves their living conditions, it allows for one to use plants and other vivarium decoration to their fullest potential. In our description of our various frogs, we will include information on their housing so that the reader can get an idea of setups that might work for them.
Despite the fact that dart frogs hail from Central and South America, their preferred temperature range is the low to mid 70 degree Fahrenheit (21-23 degrees Centigrade) . They can tolerate temperatures into the mid 60s (18 degrees C) but temperatures over 80 degrees Fahrenheit are to be avoided at all costs. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 80 degrees (27 degrees C) usually leads to frog deaths. Dart frogs enjoy humidity ranges from 70 to 90% and this is accomplished by enclosing the aquarium with a glass lid that may be partially ventilated. Care must be exercised in selecting a lid because dart frogs are notorious escape artists. If you see a hole or gap that looks too small for a frog to squeeze through - think again and seal it up. Humidity can be maintained by light misting daily with distilled water or reverse osmosis water (we don’t recommend using tap water or even spring water due to the buildup over time of mineral deposits on plants, glass, etc.).
Your basic dart frog setup consists of the following elements - a drainage layer, substrate for plants, and live plants. The drainage layer is used to prevent water saturation of the substrate (soil) and is placed on the bottom of the vivarium. A commonly used material for the drainage layer is LECA (large expanded clay aggregate) which is a highly durable and relatively light material. LECA is also known as Hydroton and can be found in hydroponics stores locally. After rinsing it well to remove dust, a 1 to 2 inch layer is placed in the vivarium. Next comes the substrate. A base substrate is cocofiber, a material that is long lasting and free of harmful additives such as fertilizers and pesticides. Do not use real soil as it will rapidly degrade in the vivarium. Because plain cocofiber has a tendency to compact, addition of materials such as orchid bark, coco husk chips, and tree fern fiber can loosen up the substrate mix and provide additional aeration. However, we have used straight cocofiber in a number of vivariums with no problem.
Now for planting the vivarium. You may be surprised to know that many common house plants that come from subtropical and tropical parts of the globe do quite well in the frog vivarium. However the key is to find those plants that will not outgrow the enclosure or choke everything else out with excessive growth. The purpose of plants in the vivarium are to provide shelter for frogs, help keep up the humidity, recycle nitrogen and other materials generated by bacterial degradation of frog poop in the substrate and to make the vivarium look alive. Some tried and tested plants include pothos and various philodendrons. While these are fairly risk free choices, they grow well in frog vivs, don’t require excessive lighting and can be easily managed with pruning. Choices with more variety include several of the smaller Alocasias, Anthuriums, Calatheas, Pileas, Peperomias and vining plants such as Ficus pumila (creeping fig) and Cissus discolor. Black Jungle Terrarium Supply is a good place to look for a variety of plants although there are other sources as well. In addition, small bromeliads can be mounted on wood and grow epiphytically where they provide breeding spots for frogs.
It is best to purchase your plants from sources that have raised them in the absence of pesticides and strong chemical fertilizers. However, it is possible to use plants purchased from stores like Lowes and Home Depot provided certain precautions are observed. To remove pesticide residue on the leaves, mix one teaspoonful of dishwashing soap in a gallon of water and immerse the foliage in the solution. Remove and let sit for 5 minutes then thoroughly rinse the foliage and soil to remove soap residue. When ready to plant in the viv substrate, remove as much of the soil from the root mass and wash thoroughly with water to remove fertilizer residue. While it is possible to purchase your plant, treat as indicated and plant the same day, it is preferable to remove the pesticide residue from the leaf surfaces and allow the plant to sit for several weeks so that pesticide residues within the plant decrease to an acceptable level.
One of the common mistakes that newcomers (including yours truly) make starting out is the temptation to plant the new viv very densely so that it has that filled in look. Unfortunately this leaves little room for the plants to grow and spread naturally and the viv rapidly becomes a vegetation choked jungle. So a sense of how rapidly individual plants grow, their full size and how you would like the viv to look in the months to come is very helpful in laying out your initial planting. Below is a picture of a viv that has been minimally planted to achieve long term outcomes.....
After you have planted your viv, it is desirable to cover the exposed substrate with something that will prevent dirt from adhering to the frogs’ skin. Live mosses can be used in the vivarium setting provided that they are tropical in nature (terrestial mosses that we have in North America normally require a dormant period during winter and tend to not do well long term in the viv). In addition most moss requires very strong lighting and over time as the plants grow it will become shaded. It might seem odd that moss requires strong light since they are normally found in shade. However consider that the light levels in shade outdoors are far greater than can be achieved in most vivariums with artificial lighting. In addition, live moss is very sensitive to mineral supplements used in feeding dart frogs and will die upon repeated exposure to them. We have migrated from using live moss to laying down a layer of long fiber sphagnum moss (New Zealand and Chilean origin preferred). We have used LFS from Calwest Orchid Supply with great success. One needs to be careful about the source of moss since some forms of sphagnum moss sold in garden shops has been heavily fumigated and the pesticide residue will be harmful to frogs. Nice things about sphagnum moss is its durability and the fact that oftentimes it will spring back to life.
The lighting used for the vivarium is more for the plants’ benefit compared to the frogs though the frogs hunt by visual observation of the movement of insects. One thing to remember is that given the closed nature of the vivarium setup, lighting tends to increase the temperature inside the viv and it is not uncommon to find a vivarium running 5 degrees warmer than the external environment. One way to minimize the impact of lighting on heat is to elevate the lights several inches off the vivarium top allowing for air flow plus using fans to provide additional circulation. One thing to consider as you select plants for the vivarium is their light requirements. We have illuminated vivariums with 15 watt reflector strips containing fluorescent bulbs normally used in aquarium setups and also hung 4 foot long shop lights containing two 32 watt tubes over vivariums. The latter is suspended a foot from the vivarium top and provides excellent light intensity into the vivarium without causing excess heat buildup. Typically fluorescent bulbs that have a 5000 or 6700K color temperature are typically used as they emit a color specturm that appears natural to the human eye. Heat lamps of any sort are not needed for dart frog vivariums and are in fact not recommended.
Where and How to Obtain Frogs
All too often one hears of situations where frogs were an impulse purchase with the new owner scrambling for information on how to care for them or that a buyer went with a cheap price only to discover problems down the road. Your best bet is to work with experienced breeders who can provide references if requested, answer your questions about the frogs in question and are willing to spend time helping you determine what frogs are right for you. Provided one is working with the right individuals or organizations, buying over the Internet and having the frogs shipped to you is not something to be feared. If the seller and buyer know what they are doing, this is an effective way of expanding your reach in obtaining frogs. Nothing however beats the experience of being able to see the frogs in person at a Reptile/Amphibian show and hand selecting the ones you want. If choosing them in person, pay close attention to the appearance of the frog. Are the colors bright and the animal alert to external stimuli? Or are the colors dull and the animal unresponsive to all but the most extreme actions? Whether buying in person or online, establish what guarantee the seller is willing to offer. Good breeders will guarantee their frogs for a period of time provided that the buyer can give proof that their care once received was proper. Avoid individuals are in a hurry to make a sale, unwilling or unable to provide references of other customers and can't answer your questions.
Feeding
Dart frogs require living prey as their feeding response is triggered by visual detection of prey movment. A staple food for dart frogs are flightless varieties of the fruitfly Drosophila melanogaster and Drosophila hydei. These insects are very easy to propagate and can form the core of your frogs' diet. Vendors such as Ed's Flymeat have the necessary materials to be able to cultivate fruit flies. Other good feeders include springtails, pinhead crickets, flour beetle larvae and waxworms with individual frog species being capable of taking larger or smaller prey. So once again it pays to research your frog of interest before taking the plunge. One thing that is critical particularly if fruit flies are to be the staple of your frog's diet is to use proper supplementation. The insects that we feed dart frogs in captivity are insufficient to provide all of the essential nutrients and trace elements that they require. A good supplementation regimen is to mix one part RepCal (a phosphorous free calcium supplement containing vitamin D3) with Herptivite (a vitamin/mineral/amino acid supplement) together and use the resulting powder mix to dust your fruit flies prior to feeding. You want to mix the two together prior to use as opposed to having them premixed as the calcium in the RepCal can damage some of the vitamins in the Herptivite. The dusting of your fruit flies is performed by dumping fruit flies into a cup containing your 1:1 RepCal:Herptivite mix, swirling the flies until they are coated with the dust and carefully tapping the dusted flies into your frog vivarium. It sounds complicated but is easily performed with a little practice. An extra benefit of dusting the flies is that they are less able to climb up the glass walls of the viv.
Other Considerations
Perhaps one of the most frequently asked questions by individuals thinking of obtaining dart frogs concerns the ability to mix different colored frogs, different species, etc. Many times this question has been stimulated by seeing a multispecies exhibit at a zoo or simply having an interest in setting up a very colorful and diverse frog vivarium. While in theory with a large enough vivarium and careful selection of its inhabitants such mixing is possible, doing so, particularly by novices is strongly discouraged. For one thing, certain dart frogs can interbreed and produce hybrid offspring. The dart frog hobby as a whole has taken the stance that we are responsible for preserving the genetic heritage of these frogs driven to a great extent by the wholesale destruction of their habitat and threats such as chytrid. Therefore maintaining the purity of bloodlines is critical in that quest. On the other hand, a more immediate practical consideration is that many dart frogs are highly territorial and can be quite aggressive towards one another. Even the large vivariums can not begin to replicate the spatial separation that frogs achieve in the wild. It is not uncommon for one species of frog to show aggression towards other members of its species and interspecies conflict while at times subtle, can ultimately lead to frog illness and death. A stressed frog will stop eating, its immune system becomes compromised and death ultimately results. By the time one realizes that such aggression is occurring, the bullied frog(s) may already be too close to death's door to be saved.
Last updated January 21, 2007